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canyonlands must-see spots for first-time visitors

December 8, 2020

Canyonlands National Park is one of the “Mighty Five” national parks in Utah, joining Zion, Bryce Canyon, Capitol Reef, and Arches together in a collection of unforgettable wilderness territories in the American West. Known for its rugged canyons, rock formations, arches, buttes, mesas, and challenging terrain, the park protects 527 square miles of stunning landscapes.

For first-time visitors to Canyonlands, it can be a bit intimidating deciding where to begin. For starters, the park is divided into three sections: Island in the Sky, The Needles, and The Maze.

The Green and Colorado Rivers cut off each area from one other, so there’s no direct way to travel between them. Add to this that a good portion of Canyonlands is only accessible by high-clearance four-wheel-drive vehicles, it becomes pretty important to sit down, look at a map, and plan your trip beforehand.

island in the sky

If you’re visiting Canyonlands for the first-time, Island in the Sky is a great place to begin. It’s the most-visited section of the park, and it’s relatively close to Moab, a small and vibrant city with plenty of food options, local shops, and places to stay. There are also several adventure tour companies based here, which is a great option if you want to rent a Jeep for wilderness exploring or a more guided experience.

You can access all of the most popular attractions in Island in the Sky with a standard vehicle. The only exception to this is White Rim Road, which is an unpaved 4-wheel-drive road that meanders closer to the canyons, allowing visitors to literally get into the park’s rugged terrain. White Rim Road is 100 miles, but it takes quite a bit longer than you might think to complete its entire distance. Think 5 miles per hour at best while driving on loose gravel, and those are the tame sections. The park brochure claims White Rim Road can take two days to drive, and they advise travelers to bring a second vehicle when exploring these backcountry areas.

If off-roading is not your thing, don’t worry as there are plenty of things to do and see in the Island in the Sky district.

1. Green River Overlook

   Green River Overlook is located midway through the park, and it’s an absolutely gorgeous spot for watching the sunset in Canyonlands. The site offers plenty of places to sit and look out over Soda Springs Basin and the Green River. And as the sun sinks lower on the horizon, the inner edges and rim of the canyon are lit with a warm glow, making for some interesting photo opportunities.

   Tip: If you want to camp within Island in the Sky, the only campground is Willow Flat Campground, and it’s right next to the Green River Overlook. Arrive early to score a spot as all campsites are on a first-come, first-served basis only. Aztec Butte and Mesa Arch, other popular destinations within the park, are also just a short drive away.

2. mesa arch

Mesa Arch is one of the most popular and most photographed natural formations in all of Canyonlands. The arch spans an area along the edge of a cliff where a wide view of canyons and the La Sal Mountains can be seen in the distance.

If you choose only one hike within the Island in the Sky district of Canyonlands, choose the Mesa Arch hike and do it at dawn. It’s quite short, about a half-mile, and apart from some rocky steps, it’s fairly accessible. A wheelchair won’t make it though, just in case that’s a concern.

Tip: Arrive at least 30 minutes to one hour before sunrise to secure a parking spot. Expect crowds, even during weekdays and in the off-season.

3. Aztec Butte

Hiking the Aztec Butte trail allows visitors to visit two archeological sites, including ancestral Puebloan ruins tucked into a sandstone alcove on the back of a hillside. The trail itself is 2 miles roundtrip and wanders through a grassy field, forking into two separate paths and sites. You can do them in either order. We chose to take the left-most split first, which leads visitors up to the ancient Pueblo granaries seen above. After this, you can continue back to the fork and take the remaining trail up the very steep butte to the top where there are more ruins.

Tip: Follow the cairns. In both cases, accessing the ruins requires scrambling and climbing up and over rocks. If you’re at all afraid of heights, the climb to the top of the butte is probably not recommended as it does get a bit tricky at the top.

4. Grand View Point Overlook

Grand View Point Overlook is the southernmost attraction within Island in the Sky. It looks out over Monument Basin, The Maze, and The Needles in the distance. A 2-mile out-and-back trail leads visitors to more panoramic views along the canyon’s edge.

Tip: Visit Grand View later in the afternoon and make your way back to Green River Overlook for sunset.

5. buck canyon overlook

Several overlooks are easily accessed from the scenic drive through Island in the Sky. Buck Canyon is among the best of them, and it shouldn’t be missed. It’s a short walk from the parking area to the overlook, so it won’t take more than a few minutes to stop and take in the view.

Tip: Stop at the Buck Canyon Overlook after you’ve visited Grand View Point Overlook. It’s a well-marked right-hand turn when you’re headed north back through the park.

THE NEEDLES

The Needles is the second-most visited district in Canyonlands and is named for a cluster of colorful sandstone formations in the backcountry. They can be viewed from an overlook point outside the park boundary or by driving on an unpaved road to Elephant Hill and hiking from there.

If you’re like us and you end up biting off more than you can chew at Canyonlands, and you end up not having enough time to see the actual formations, there are still some really cool things to do in The Needles section of the park.

Tip: The Needles is about a two-hour drive from Island of the Sky. We tried to tack on a quick visit after spending half the day at Island of the Sky. And while I’m happy we were able to experience some of it, I would recommend allotting an entire day to explore here, especially if you plan to do any hiking whatsoever.

Photos by Elaine Skylar Neal / Travels and Curiosities

The Maze

First and foremost, we have not yet been to The Maze district of Canyonlands National Park, but we’re including some general information here to both fuel your inspiration and to instill some much-needed caution. The Maze has been regarded as one of the most dangerous places to hike in Utah. Water is scarce, it’s easy to get lost, and it can take up to three days for rescuers to reach you if you run into trouble. Not to mention, the roads are few and far between, and they’re only passable by high-clearance four-wheel-drive vehicles.

Tip: There is no food, gas, or water sources in The Maze. This Maze Roads Guide will give you a good idea of what to expect, and it provides estimated drive times from the Hans Flat station to various locations and campsites in the district.

camping in canyonlands

There is only one campground within the Island in the Sky district that is not in the backcountry, Willow Flat Campground, and all of its 12 sites are first-come, first-served. The sites are $15 per night, and they all have picnic tables, fire pits, and access to nearby pit toilets. The maximum stay is 7 consecutive nights, and the campground is open year-round. They are also extremely popular, so if you want one, you’re going to have to arrive early to even have the hope of getting a spot.

If you don’t score a campsite in Willow Flat, which should be expected, there are several BLM developed campgrounds just outside the park, and they are shown on the park map that you receive when you pass through the visitor’s center. This was really helpful, especially as there is no cell service in or around the park. We stayed at Cowboy Camp, which is a secluded and developed campground just off the main road.

In The Needles district, The Needles Campground is a developed campground with 26 individual sites and 3 group sites. Some sites can be reserved in advance, depending on the time of year. As with Island in the Sky, there are several BLM developed campgrounds within about a 10-15 minute drive outside of the park’s entrance. We stayed at Creek Pasture Campground, seen in the photo above, which had absolutely gorgeous views.

If you want to camp in the backcountry of Canyonlands, there are several areas to choose from, but they all require hiking to access them.

Tip: Budget $20 for each campsite and bring cash. If you’re unfamiliar with this process, there is usually a self-pay station where you will deposit cash into an envelope. And BYO firewood. Collecting wood is prohibited, and there are no stores that sell wood within the park.

canyonlands with kids

Canyonlands National Park is a great place for kids, especially older children. If you’re traveling with smaller children, take extra caution. The area is full of loose rocks, drop-offs, and cliff edges that could pose serious injury or death to a little one. Check out the Safety Tips on the NPS site and plan ahead by bringing extra water, sunscreen, and a snakebite kit.

For more outdoor preparedness tips, see our Best Gear for Wilderness Exploring.

Tip: If your kids are slightly older, as in non-kindergarten or toddler age, try the Aztec Butte hike. Following the cairns to locate the secret native ruins is straight out of an Indiana Jones film.

photography at canyonlands

There are endless options for photography in Canyonlands National Park. Bear in mind, you will not be alone. In fact, even if the rest of the park seems relatively empty, be prepared for a spontaneous arrival of cameras and tripods almost out of nowhere, especially at sunrise and sunset. But you know what? Don’t worry about them. Sometimes it’s better to not stand where everyone else is. Look for your own unique perspectives and have fun! 🤓

Tip: If you own an ultra-wide lens, such as a 14-24mm, bring it! We left our 15mm Voigtlander prime at home, which is the only lens I own that is wider than the 24-90mm Leica Vario-Elmarit-SL that I use with my Leica SL (Typ 601). I love the SL system by the way, and if you want to read more about it, check out What’s in My Camera Bag to see our thoughtful but minimalistic travel camera setup.

Things to do near canyonlands

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